Ever since my childhood, the only dish that never left our dinning table was rice. Whenever we had our regular meals or hosted a special dinner, rice dishes always topped our menu. The trend began when my grandparents were alive; every evening at seven they used to sit in the dining room and wait anxiously for the servants to serve simple rice in a spacious dish.

Sometimes, the rice was overcooked or too fluffy but we all ate it heartily, especially my grandfather who had simple tastes in life. He loved the shimmering smoke which came from the cooked rice. The dish was always placed in the centre with the gravy dishes. Despite my grandmother’s annoyance, rice ruled the house. The servants also enjoyed making it because it required minimum effort on their behalf.

It has been twenty years since my grandparents passed away, but rice continues to be a ‘must have’ part of our supper and our life. For me, it has been a reminder of many things – of how we used to eat together as a family in one room under the ‘silent scrutiny’ of our grandfather. He disliked children taking meals to bedrooms and ensured that we finished every little bit.

Now, I can see the taste buds of the third generation savouring the rice with familiar excitement. My father is not an ardent fan but my brothers live for rice. Thoug, they do not cook very frequently, there are constant reminders to my mother that she has to cook it tomorrow.

Our family journey with rice has inspired my mother to try her hand at a variety of continental dishes teamed with rice. But the one that has received a welcoming response from the family and is made in mum’s own way is ‘pullao.’ Popularly known as, ‘yellow rice,’ it is a traditional Pakistani cuisine of rice prepared individually with vegetables, chicken and mutton and often served with any vegetable or meat based dish.

My mother’s association with pullao always takes her into early days when cooking for 12 people was dependent on village cooks. “I never took cooking seriously but often watched the ancient cook, standing near the old metal stove, humming with his sleeves up, playing with pots and pans….later food and nutrition class helped to a certain extent…,” Mum, remarked.

She never kept any diary or followed any recipe book but said that it came ‘naturally to her’. When it comes to pullao, the lady makes it frequently and for all occasions. It is always intriguing to watch her, remove the hot lid gradually with a cloth, experience the steamy and spicy fragrance of pullao, and present it among eager rice eaters who don’t believe in, ‘leaving out the last grain.’

The best way to relish the tasty rice and feel the cultural essence of pullao is, to devour it with fingers rather than spoons. Though our father doesn’t approve of this method but we can’t help it and enjoy sharing a simple meal which is light, easy, a great alternative to simple rice and can be accompanied with any main course. Above all, it symbolises the hope of raising healthy rice eaters and uniting the family and cultural bonds.

Pullao

Ingredients

Water 6 Cups

Mutton/ Chicken/Beef half Kg

Rice 1 Kg

Oil half Cup

Onions 2 Medium

Garlic Cloves 4

Ginger 1 Small

Garam Masala Powder 1 Tsp

Cinnamon 1 Small Stick

Coriander Leaves small bunch

Salt 1 Tsp

Yogurt 3Tbsp

1. Fill the cooking pot with water and add chicken/mutton/beef to it.

2. Add slices of one onion, garlic cloves and ginger, along with garam masala powder, cinnamon stick, coriander leaves and salt in the mixture.

3. When the meat becomes slightly tender, take the stock off the heat.

4. Meanwhile, soak the basmati rice in water for 15 minutes.

5. Slice the other onion, heat oil in a large pot and fry it till dark brown. Now, put the meat pieces in the pot and fry them with onion for one minute. Then add the rest of the stock.

6. When the mixture begins to boil, put soaked rice in it.

7. Later when the water becomes dry, add a little pinch of garam masala powder, and yogurt to rice.

8. Cover it, turn the heat to medium-low and cook till the rice has cooked, usually another 10 minutes.

9. Enjoy it with plain yogurt or vegetable/meat based dish.

* Madiha Anwar is a Pakistani writer.